Ecua-blog!

I just got back from two weeks in beautiful Ecuador. Two weeks isn't really enough to really hit all of Ecuador. Another month or so might have done the trick, but it would be easy enough to do a month volunteering at the Andean Bear reserve. As for the two weeks that did happen (and not the months of travel Rachel and I have dreamed up at various times- prepare yourself Easter Island!) there are many stories, but first I wanted to empty my head of a few facts and observations from my time there. Maybe after that we'll get to a few stories. Ready, set, jet:

In Quito (the capital) it is very common for pedestrians to run across the street to avoid cars. It is simply a cultural acknowledgment that in many situations, a person can cross the street if the car slows down, or if their feet speed up. In most cultures I've been in, the general choice is that the car slows down, unless it's the car's turn, in which case the pedestrian just waits. Travelling Ecuadorians seem to only use the turn taking system when the other option involves the hospital.

In a similar vein, the driving is free-form, unless there is an immediate physical reason to fall into line. If you think about it, there's usually space for a passing lane in the combined empty space in most two-lane, two-direction roads. Everyone just needs to move over a little. It's easy enough, as long as you're not completely terrified by the whole idea, which none of our drivers was, and we only were some of the time.

A guy we met at a hostal said they had a near miss on a bus. I didn't think much of that comment, because saying that in Ecuador is sort of like saying you almost bumped into someone on the train at rush hour in New York. It was only clear how near his miss was when he said that the bus driver pulled over to catch his breath and steady himself while all the passengers yelled at him for almost killing them.

Enough bus- Cotopaxi is the highest peak in Ecuador and an active volcano. According to our guide, it last went off 100 years ago, and so the citizens of the nearby villages (which are very much in range, should it go off again) are not worried. I can't recall if that's because 100 years is a long time for a human (it's been forever) or a short time for a volcano (it's not due for a while) or a long time for a volcano (it seems done for now), but as long as they're living there anyway, I'm glad they feel safe.

A full moon will make it harder to spot caiman, because they like to have as much darkness as possible. You spot them by shining a flashlight around the shores of the river and looking for their glowing red eyes.

There is a town called Iluman that has a shaman collective with hundreds of members.

We met a shaman in the amazon who is a mere well-informed mortal by day, but at night, when he takes ayahuasca, he can look into your soul and describe what ails you on the level of raw energy.

One day I hope to take that potion, but our actual introduction to shamanic ceremonies of South America was perfect. You'll have to stay tuned for that though.

In Ecuador, sometimes there are large rocks in the middle of the road. Not often, but more often than never.

I'm a big 1 for 1 in hitch-hiking.

You can make an awesome bread out of yucca root.

All this time, you people have been keeping possibly the best part of the cacao plant from me: the gooey stuff around the beans! It's colorful, sweet and nutritious! Was anyone going to mention this, or did you want me to figure this out on my own?

Church (1)

I don’t know what YOU came here for, but I came to PRAISE the LORD!!!
I mean, hello again.
One of the coolest parts of my job as a community organizer was that I had to go to church every Sunday. It was a black church every time except one Sunday when I was going to go to one church, but for some reason that didn’t work out, so a friend took me to a mixed church. That’s the one I’m going to write about this time, though the other churches deserve at least one post.
The black churches I went to all had a choir, and usually a drummer and keyboardist, but the mixed church had a full band. Actually they had at least two full bands. There were three or four guitarists, a couple of drummers, a lot of people singing, some of them into microphones, and I don’t need to tell you who was the most into it of anyone, it was the chick on the tambourine. It’s practically a law of nature that what tambourine players lack in range of instrument, they make up for in raw passion. They sounded good, and I’m not just saying that.
This church was the most consciously interactive of any that I went to. It might have been too much for me, but it was also really big- probably at least 100 people there- so if you weren’t rocking as hard as most around you, it didn’t make you stand out too much. At most of the other churches I went to, the bulk of the time was given to cultivating a good “Jesus high.” At this one, it was of the utmost important that you feel God’s love, that you are purified by his holy light.
(A quick word before things get out of hand. I think church is awesome. I don’t feel the need to make it part of my life, I don’t feel the need to draw hard lines around my spirituality, and I definitely don’t need to get it from one particular source. I’m sure some of my personal feelings are going to seep through here, but I’m not trying to endorse or anti-endorse anyone else’s choices.)
Once we were all feeling good and charged up from the music and the singing, the service proper began. The pastor was charismatic, non-judgmental, and carried a biblical wisdom to him. He was absolutely going to save as many souls as he could. To him, there was a very direct line between sinning and misfortune. He passionately told a story about trying to save a boy who had lost God. But he couldn’t. The boy drowned. This, to him, was not a coincidence. And you know what you have to do if you’ve been sinning, you need to confess… in front of everyone. Okay, maybe you don’t need to do that, but it sure helps…
I’m going to cut to the chase here: Not one, not two, but three, three different people over the course of the lengthy confession/sharing part of the morning announced their addiction to pornography on stage. At one point the pastor said “This is the difference between life and death here.” It was cathartic for all of them. There was no laughter or derision. These men had sinned, but now they were asking for God’s forgiveness, and who was going to argue with that.
I don’t think that morning did anything to advance the Obama campaign in Richmond county, but I’m really glad I went. For starters, you cannot understand church culture without going to see it. I see it as a lot of things, but perhaps most as an organized way of getting high. The experience is facilitated and mediated by a very specific set of beliefs (in the case of church). It doesn’t have to involve any sort of belief, it can come from music, drugs, (especially) community- anything that makes you feel connected to something big. The phrase “bigger than yourself,” is used frequently, which is fine, but I don’t like to imply separation- the whole idea is that YOU are big. Whether that comes from being a part of a god that plays by Judeo-Christain rules, or from being a child of mama Gaia, or from something more abstract that has less to do with a belief and more to do with a feeling.
For those folks, they are a part of a very special club, and if that means that they occasionally have to announce their masturbation habits in front of their friends and family (!), well, ego is nothing in the face of God’s love and acceptance. And it basically works for them. It may involve some brutal guilt sometimes, and much more (I don’t really know), and I would feel a little more comfortable with it all if I got more of a sense of choice of belief/lifestyle/the whole shebang, but at the end of the day I don’t have many judgments to pass out here.
That said, for those 3ish hours, I felt not at all like an organizer and very much like an anthropologist.

Waking Dream (life, blue jays)

The night before last I couldn't sleep a wink, so I stayed up until 7 playing video games and writing about the Toronto Blue Jays. Life is so strange, but I like it very much.

The Harmony of Dog and Tail

It's been a little while since I posted, so I thought I'd check in. If there's anything you'd really like to read a post about (from me) then let me know, because I feel we've entered the request part of the evening.

I had a thought the other day on why I still shudder a little when I really think about life on the campaign. The long hours were part of it, as was the pressure of how much the whole thing mattered (compounded by the organizational layers that existed to remind of that pressure), but I think it was something a little more fundamental. To be a field organizer, I had to be a slightly different thing than I'm used to being. If I'm a point I was in a different location. If I'm a vector I was pointed in a different direction. If I'm a polygon then my sides were stretched a little differently. If I'm a song, the chord progression changed a little. If I'm a sandwich, I had more celery. Yes dear reader, the Obama campaign made me into a celery sandwich.

I had to lean on people more than I like to. I had to find the cracks in other people's armor and wiggle my way into their lives. I had to interrupt people at dinner. I had to convince people that calling other people while they are at dinner, or even better, knocking on their doors, is way way more helpful than your f***ing yard sign. People wanted him to win, and they wanted to help, but they didn't want to help outside of their own comfort zone (I'm speaking of 95% of people here. I am infinitely thankful for the other 5%). And that's not because people are bad, it's because people are people, and I generally prefer not to ask people to be much more or much other than they are, but I had a job to do.

I don't know that the answer is, but wouldn't it be nice if politics wasn't so obscure? I mean, my job was to call strangers to get them to call other strangers and either convince them to vote Obama, or convince them to join them in calling from a targeted list of strangers. There was plenty more, but that sums up a lot of it. The whole system was articulated when things were smaller and much more based on agriculture. The needs of the me and the we were mostly known and tangible. The structure of decision-making was based on those sorts of conditions. Now we have that same structure stretched over the massive monster that is today's U.S. of A. The tail that was designed to wag in accordance with the wishes and moods of the dog has become more conscious and more powerful. Now we've got cluster and fuck pointing fingers at each other and asking for your money and support to prevent the other side from clustering or fucking you (depending on where your allegiances lie).

Still, once in a while something more true and more honest, something more about the dog than the tail comes along. I felt Obama was one of those people/phenomena, and was so badly needed now. So I went on a vision quest, a mission to mars, a journey to the south, to a place only loosely connected to where I'm from in time and space. I'm different now in ways that I only partially understand, but I feel better. Not only that, but our president is Barack Obama, and our VP is not Sarah Palin. In the last paragraph I kind of implied that the ideas that form our government are based on conditions that no longer apply, but I will say this: we just pulled off a major revolution without shedding a single drop of blood, and there aren't many places in the world where that is possible.

Call Time

I've mentioned call time here before, but I haven't really done it justice yet. I can't even think about it without having a visceral reaction- not entirely negative, but, well, I'll do my best to describe it.

There were plenty of rules, guidelines, goals, and the like for us field organizers, but none was hit harder than this one: call time is sacred. It was usually 3 hours a day when I started. It moved up to 4 on most days after that, and by the time election day had appeared on the horizon we were doing 5 every weekday, none on Saturday (though none sometimes turned into 3) and 4 on Sunday.

90% of that was volunteer recruitment. Usually it was 100%, but there were a few weeks when half of it was persuasion. One pleasant surprise: I loved and kicked ass at persuasion. Sometimes it took 10 minutes, but if someone wasn't already on one side or the other, I could often bring them over to Obama. Sadly, after a few weeks of that, the higher-ups decided it would be more efficient to have us do vol recruitment the whole time and have the volunteers do the persuading. Maybe that was true, but 4 hours of volunteer recruitment could be excruciating.

Here's what a great call time would be like for me: Before it started (usually around 4 or 5), I would nip over to the CVS and pick up snacks (usually trail mix and/or cookies) and, if it felt right, the energy drink called Rumba. I wouldn't call it healthy, but it's fruit juice based and doesn't have high fructose corn syrup for what that's worth. Right before I got started with the calls I would say to myself: "Let's get ready to Rumba!" then I would crack open my beverage and flip open my phone.

Looking at those words, I feel slightly ridiculous, but given the task at hand, anything to get me pumped up helped. The job was to make roughly 30 calls per hour for 4 hours straight. Ideally I would tear through a bunch in the first two hours so that I would have time for breaks. When I was really rumbling, I could do 40-50 an hour. On some nights I might be close to 100 by around the midway point. Even better, I might have had some success at the actual point of call time which was to turn people into volunteers. With some success in the first half, I could relax a little more in the last hour or so.

I would have a really good night of calls maybe once or twice a week. The other nights were mostly average and sometimes crappy. When I say average, I mean average for spending 4 consecutive hours calling strangers and asking them to volunteer their time (check the "Volunteer Ask" post if you want more of that story). You sort of get used to it, but it never really breezed by and was over before I knew it. There were two main things that could make call time fun and satisfying: Rumba and success. Snacks made it more tolerable. I had snacks almost every night, Rumba I tried to keep to a few times a week and success came and went like warm days in March or good news during the Bush administration.

Of course there was a substitute for Rumba or coffee or whatever and that was actual energy. I have some of that these days. I feel more healthy and alive, less drowsy and propped up by caffeine. I would put myself at around a 6 or 7 on most days. By September I hung around 4, and could clamber up to the midpoint with coffee. By October it was more like 2 or 3, as close to crashing as I was to normal, often closer. The best part of my day was when I went home and had some dinner, while I sunk into a chair and Rachel Maddow would say, "You'll never guess what McCain said today." The whole idea of feeling good as a general state, like when you get enough sleep, eat well, get some exercise, that sort of thing, was simply not on the table until after the election. It took at least a month till after it was all done before I really felt "back."

In a way the most impressive thing about the campaign was that they got us to do stuff like that. It took constant nudging, but they got us stressed, sleep-deprived warriors to start at 9am, work through the day, and then when most people would be finishing up, pull out our phones and make calls for 4 friggin hours. And that wasn't even the end of the work day.

Secret Post!

Alright Wonkavator fans, here's the deal: I do have a post ready to go, but, I'm not going to put it in this space. The reason is that it is about someone specific, and while I don't think he (or maybe even she) reads this blog, you can never be sure on the ol' interweb. Back in 2003 (I think) when the internet was just starting to unfold into the beast it is now (it was the Friendster internet), I had a formative internet moment. There was a girl who went to college with me, and I had never talked to her, but I knew who she was, mostly by virtue of going to a school with 2800 other students. This girl was, for lack of a more accurate word, mannish. Eventually, rumors started to circulate that she in fact used to be a man. I'm a big believer in "to each their own," but we couldn't help being curious. Using nothing but her name, a logical guess on what her male name might have been, and of course google (just starting to take over), I was able to confirm this in 10 minutes. I didn't do anything fancy either. I googled one name, then the other, and that was enough. To repeat, I didn't know her personally, and within 10 minutes I was able to confirm that she had had a sex change. Maybe that's not as weird these days, but that was my first real moment of the internet revealing more information than it necessarily should. I'm all for the free spread of information, but maybe people should be able to have a sex change without it being public knowledge.

Anyway, the point is that once something is out there, you can't control what happens to it (the other point is that I think that story is amazing in a sort of sick way and I felt like telling it). Therefore, if you want to read the most recent post, you need to send me an email or let me know in the comments section or something.

And for what it's worth, I wouldn't bother with this story at all, but I feel like it ought to be told in some form. Curious, aren't you. The ball is in your court- whack it back!

Good Strange Things vol. 2

By October I was in a sort of altered state most of the time. I don't mean on drugs other than caffeine, which was certainly part of my state, and the occasional after-work drink. I mean I was fatigued in a way that I knew wouldn't go away fully into I really got to rest, and I knew that would not happen until after the election. At that point the election was just starting to appear on the horizon, but it was still a ways off. I accepted this reality without argument, which made me more able to live with it, but the work day rarely sailed by. I would generally go to sleep relaxed and wake up the same way, but once the day started all bets were off. There were days that I felt like I wasn't holding up my own body, rather I was draping it over the structure implied by my schedule and my superiors expectations. When I took a break, I relaxed hard and hoped it lasted, because if someone came into the office, I would jump back up and greet them.

I was finishing up a late lunch, waiting for me to tell myself I needed to get back to work on October 11th (gmail search), when a small, middle-aged, Indian (from India) man came in and started peering at the various things on the walls of the Richmond County Democratic Headquarters. He didn't seem to require any assistance, nor did he really look like he was looking to volunteer, so I let him do his thing and enjoyed the end of my break.

Eventually I gave him a "Hi, can I help you?" or one of those. We exchanged pleasantries, and he mentioned that he was from India. I told him that I've been to India, which was a shock to him. A lot of Richmond Countians hadn't seen much outside of the Carolinas, let alone another continent, let alone Asia. All of a sudden we were having a spirited conversation. He talked about how he liked all the Democratic candidates, how he came from Mumbai to here because his son lives here and has a clothing shop (I think). We talked about India, Gandhi, the poet Rabindranath Tagore, the Ganges- at first he didn't know what I was talking about because I was saying "the Ganges", and to him it's "the Gunga."

We talked for a while, and by the time we were done I felt refreshed. We quietly appreciated each other for unexpectedly providing a conversation that neither of us could have had with anyone else in Richmond County. I really don't have a problem with your typical resident of the RC, but I had seen a lot of them over the last two months, and to meet someone who fit a completely different description was very refreshing. I think he mentioned meditation at some point, and he had a subtle wisdom that I associate with meditators. As for him, I can only speculate as to how long it had been since he'd met a stranger who had been to his homeland, but I expect those were few and far between.

Eventually the time came for him to go and for me to get back to work, and the conversation came to a natural end. He stepped toward the door and then stopped and turned around, to say something. At that moment it was like everything up to that point was leisure time, but there was one point of business- wise little Indian men don't just wander into your office for no reason after all. He had a message for me, and he wasn't going to leave until I heard it. I looked up at him, and he said this:"I am sixty years of age. I am very healthy. No diabetes, no heartburn, no (something)."

I asked him how he does it

"Vegetables and hard work."
Somehow that was the perfect conclusion to the whole thing. I never saw him again, nor did I need to. We had given each other a boost, and he had passed on a little piece of truth to me. I wouldn't get many more, but life was expected to be hard then, and a little something like that every week or so was all I needed.